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The town s pizzeria rents out two flats Mon-Fri). The adjacent bus and train stations are 300/1000Sk; pizzas 75-115Sk) pizzeria and penzión
n)
above the restaurant, one with high-speed in- BORDERLANDS 500m due west of the vast, pedestrian-friendly has been recently renovated (rooms redone
ternet connection. It doesn t make a bad slice square; the Information Office (%788 1051; 8am- in 2006). Apartments have colourful paint
o pizza either (pizzas 90Sk to 115Sk). Shingled onion domes rise above the dark noon & 1-6pm) is in the train station. on the wall and Ikea-like furnishings. Out-
Salaa Lesná (%474 2433; mains 55-90Sk; h8.30am- wooden churches as Old Church Slavonic The local palace now contains the Vihor- side of town, in the woods, 3km east of the
11pm) Has all the Slovak specialities at their chants float from within; you know that latské museum (%775 2240; adult/student 35/10Sk; centre, is the holiday-oriented Hotel Kamei
folksy best. Dig into your fresh haluaky (small, there s something different about this part with
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun May-Oct), (%768 2187; www.kamei.sk; s/d 1100/1600Sk; ps).
gnocchi-like dumplings usually topped with of the country. The borderlands are home to exhibits on archaeology, local history and A five-minute walk from here leads to two
sheep s cheese and bacon bits) while admir- a large Rusyn minority (see the boxed text, feudal housing. Uphill from there is the as- local lakes for swimming (free to guests) and
E A S T S L O V A K I A
EAST SLOVAKIA
432 EASTERN BORDERLANDS " " Poloniny National Park Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com EASTERN BORDERLANDS " " Svidník 433
Campbell Soup II, Hammer & Sickle and The best alternative to staying the night in the
WOODEN CHURCHES AROUND SNINA
Mao Tse Tung. There are also paintings by dismal town with great sights is to sleep in
Near the Ukrainian border are some beautiful examples of the traditional wooden churches
his nephew James Warhol and older brother Bardejov (35km away) and take a day trip.
reflective of the local Rusyn culture. By car, bike or foot is the only way to get around, as buses
Paul Warhola. Paul, a chicken farmer living
between villages are sporadic at best, and most don t run on weekends. Churches are locked
near Pittsburgh, took up painting at the age History
except for services; ask around for someone who can let you in.
of 61; his Heinz Ketchup Bottle painting sold Svidník evolved from Vyaný and Ni~ný (Upper
The first wooden church is 3km east of Snina in the village of Jalová. This tiny 1792 church
for $US10,000. To get there from the train and Lower) Svidník, which had as much as an
was completely rebuilt by traditional methods in 2004. High on a hill, Topo>a, 13km east of
station, turn left onto Andyho Warhola and 80% Rusyn population according to the 1930
Snina, is more impressive. The 18th-century iconostasis and 1819 Old Church Slovanic liturgy
keep going straight for 800m look for the census. German and Soviet forces clashed here
book are still inside the church.
Campbell s soup cans out front. in November 1944. The Germans knew that if
From Topo>a, instead of following the road, you can hike over the hill via the blue trail (2½
Opposite the museum is Penzión Andy (%732 the Soviets breached German defences around
hours) to Ruský Potok, 24km east of Snina. The church itself dates from the 1740s, but the rare
1640; www.penzionandy.sk; Andy Warhola 121; 3-person r the Dukla Pass they could easily advance across
liturgy books date from 1626 and 1654. Note the richly carved woodwork. A further 1½-hour
1800Sk; p), with large apartments and a decent the plains to the south, so some of the most
hike east on the blue trail brings you to Uli%0Å„ske Krivé (1718), 35km east of Snina. The structure
restaurant adorned with Warhol prints. ferocious fighting of WWII took place in and
is quite large, as wooden churches go, with correspondingly elaborate iconography inside. Look
Medzilaborce is up a rail spur line from around Svidník. Communist Slovakia outlawed
for the Jesus Pantocrator icon (with his two right fingers held up in blessing), which was painted
Humenné (56Sk, 1¼ hours, up to 10 daily). the Greek Catholic faith and declared the
in the 1500s.
Almost all buses from Preaov and Koaice re- Rusyn minority Ukrainian (and thus Ortho-
The end of this particular road is 7.5km further at Nová Sedlica. The church has been moved
quire a change at Humenné (89Sk; 1½ hours, dox). Still, around 15% of the population once
to the village museum in Humenné (p431), but this town the furthest east in Slovakia is the
up to six daily). One morning bus a day con- again claims Rusyn as their ethnic identity. For
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